Catania, Sicily: if you are looking for a city that is perfect for a weekend, you are in the right place. I am writing to you as the host of a flat in the heart of the old town, and I promise you that few places in the world manage to give you so much in so little time. An airport just a handful of minutes from the centre, a human scale, sea, mountain, markets, baroque architecture and food to die for: everything within walking distance or just a short hop away.
In this article I will tell you how to enjoy a two-day city break without rushing, soaking up the real rhythm of the city. If instead you want an even more detailed itinerary, take a look at my guide on what to do in Catania in 2 days: here I keep things lighter, short-weekend style, and I will point you there for all the details.
Why is Catania perfect for a weekend?
The short answer is this: because you arrive easily, drop off your bags, and in ten minutes you are already strolling between markets and baroque palaces, with no need for a car.
Fontanarossa airport is about 5 kilometres from the old town, and with the Alibus shuttle (a ticket costs around 4 euros) you reach the main square in under twenty minutes. Once you are here, you can explore the whole city on foot: from the fish market to Via Etnea it is a ten-minute walk, and all the baroque sights are packed into a tiny area. For all the details on flights, trains and connections, I will point you to the guide on how to get to Catania.
Saturday morning: the fish market and a Catania breakfast
Start your weekend the right way, which means with a proper Catania breakfast. No cappuccino and croissant here: this is the land of granita with a brioche col tuppo. Almond, pistachio, black mulberry in summer, and that soft brioche to dip in. You will spend around 3 or 4 euros and set off with a smile. You will find excellent bars along Via Etnea and in the little squares of the centre.
After breakfast, head down to the fish market, Catania's historic Pescheria, just steps from Piazza del Duomo. It opens around 7 and runs until about 13, but the best part is early morning, when it is in full swing: fishmongers shouting out prices, stalls of tuna and swordfish, crates of sea urchins and mussels, the smell of sea and lemon. It is a free spectacle that is worth the trip on its own.
Fabio's tip
My tip as a local: have your granita breakfast before 9, when the bars are still quiet, then head down to the fish market while it is still in full swing. After 11 it starts to empty out and loses all its magic. Go early, trust me.
Saturday afternoon: the baroque old town
After a light lunch, it is time to lose yourself in the baroque old town, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Start from Piazza del Duomo, the city's living room, with the cathedral of Sant'Agata and above all the Fontana dell'Elefante, the famous lava-stone "Liotru" that is the symbol of Catania. It is the perfect spot for the first photo of the weekend.
From here continue towards Via dei Crociferi, one of the most beautiful baroque streets in Italy, a string of churches and dramatic facades within a few metres. Not far away you will find the Monastero dei Benedettini, huge and stunning, now home to the university: the guided tour costs around 10 euros and takes you inside one of the largest monastic complexes in Europe.
Wrap up the afternoon by walking back up Via Etnea, the great artery of shopping and the evening stroll, with Etna standing out against the backdrop on clear days. Step into the courtyards, look up at the balconies, let your nose lead the way. For more ideas on museums and must-see places, the guide on what to do in Catania in 2 days goes into detail.
Saturday evening: aperitivo and a traditional dinner
The short answer is this: in Catania people dine late and go out even later, so take your time and follow the rhythm of the city.
Begin with an aperitivo in the centre, perhaps between Piazza Università and the streets around the Teatro Massimo Bellini: a Spritz or an Etna wine costs around 5 or 7 euros and often comes with a few nibbles. Then at dinner let yourself be tempted by the great classics: pasta alla Norma with fried aubergines, tomato and salted ricotta, and the super-fresh fish you just saw at the market. For a full meal with wine, reckon on around 25 or 35 euros per person in a good trattoria.
If you want to know exactly what to order and where, I have written a whole guide on what to eat in Catania. After dinner, the nightlife of the old town comes alive: the tables fill up and the little squares get going especially after 23, so do not be in a hurry to head back.
Fabio's tip
One thing that throws off visitors: here, before 21 the restaurants are half-empty and people only really show up in the squares after 23. Do not think everything is closed or dead. Adapt to the Sicilian rhythm and you will have twice the fun.
Sunday morning: Castello Ursino and the market
On Sunday you start slowly. A great idea is Castello Ursino, the lava-stone fortress built under Frederick II that today houses the civic museum: admission is about 6 euros and it is a dive into the city's history, with the curious fact that it once stood by the sea and now sits inland because of the lava flows.
Afterwards, take a quick stroll through the market to taste something else, or treat yourself to a relaxing walk in Villa Bellini, the large historic garden overlooking Via Etnea: palm trees, fountains and a view that makes you forget you are in the city centre.
Fabio's tip
On Sunday morning the centre is quiet, none of the previous day's market shouting and few people around. It is the right moment for photos in Piazza Duomo without the crowds: you arrive, take your shots in the soft morning light and have the square almost all to yourself.
Sunday afternoon: Etna or the sea?
The short answer is this: it depends on the season and your mood, but from Catania you have both the volcano and the sea within easy reach.
If you go for the mountain, you can spend half a day on Etna. There is a bus that leaves from Via Etnea (near the central station) in the morning and takes you to Rifugio Sapienza, at 1900 metres, for about 7 euros each way. From there you can walk among the extinct craters or climb higher with the cable car. Remember a jacket: even in June it is chilly up there.
If instead you prefer the sea, aim for the Riviera dei Ciclopi: in a few minutes by train or car you reach Aci Castello, with its Norman castle perched over the water, and Aci Trezza, where the famous Faraglioni rise from the sea like giant rocks. It is the perfect place to close the weekend with a plate of fish by the sea.
Where to stay for a weekend in Catania
The short answer is this: for a short weekend, stay in the centre, so you are within walking distance of everything and do not waste precious time getting around.
With two days available, every minute counts. A flat in the old town lets you step out onto the street and find yourself straight away among the fish market, the Duomo and Via Etnea, pop back to rest after your morning walk, and head out in the evening without a thought for parking or taxis. This is exactly why I opened the Lavika Loft: a welcoming space right in the heart of the city, designed for those who want to experience Catania on foot and in freedom.
If I have convinced you, take a look at the available dates and plan your weekend. I will be happy to share all my local tips once you arrive.
